Author Archives: Julia Winterflood

The Komodo New Moon Currents: Part 2

I saw it before he did. About five metres deeper, the size of an adult wombat. Dark, menacing, malevolent face fixed on us in a smouldering scowl. Before I could alert Andrea in a black and yellow bared-teeth blur it burst forth hurtling towards his head. It shot past his left ear then u-turned around […]

The Komodo New Moon Currents: Part 1

Whenever diving in Komodo is discussed–or rather feverishly frothed over–the formidable strength of its currents dominates. Komodo National Park off West Flores, East Nusa Tenggara, is widely considered to be home to some of the world’s most challenging recreational diving. The frenetic currents are caused by the Indonesian Throughflow (ITF), first noted by Polish oceanographer […]


The first time I went to Pasar Badung I was so overwhelmed by its size I didn’t even go in. I’d ojeked into Denpasar from Ubud for the day to scope out somewhere to live. In Bandung my shoe box boarding house room was eight minutes’ walk from work and there I walked everywhere, or […]

North Bali Birthday Adventures, or Never Trust Google Maps

With apologies to my father, Greg Winterflood, and to Kuning Fellow volunteer Toni’s career history is riveting. She’s worked as an archaeologist with Indigenous people in Arnhem Land and as a maritime archaeologist in Victoria, searching for shipwrecks with the kind of undersea gadgets I thought only existed in sci-fi. Some of her diving stories […]

Peringatan dua tahun di Indonesia

Pada hari pertama tahun 2012 aku terbangun oleh kejutan: garis pantai Jawa Selatan yang memusingkan dalam keindahannya. Dalam gelap gulita malam sebelumnya, kami tergelincir, mengutuk dan berteriak melewati lumpur ke atas bukit. Di sana ada rumah dibangun oleh satu warga Australia (di belakang pintu kamar kecil ada kalendar oleh Leunig, kartunis Australia yang terkenal). Dalam […]

Happy two year anniversary, Indonesia

On the first day of 2012 I awoke to a spectacular surprise: dazzling, dramatic South Java coastline. In pitch-black the night before we’d slipped and squelched and cursed and yelped our way up to a house built by an Aussie (Leunig calendar on the back of the toilet door) atop a rice terraced hill skirted […]

Seven Sunrises

I farewelled my mother Meredith and her husband Richard at Denpasar airport today after nine days at Griya Santrian, a grand old beach resort in Sanur. I then swung by Warung Santai, one of my regular joints, for a late arvo lunch. While seated at a bench in front of a window adorned with seasonal […]