Category Uncategorized

Where to eat during UWRF15

I love Indonesian food. I love it so much that when I lived in Bandung last year I compiled an A-Z of My Favourite Indonesian Cuisine. This year, for the inaugural Ubud Food Festival blog, I wrote articles on the cuisine of West Java, Central Java, Lombok and North Sulawesi. My list of recommendations for […]

Kites above the clouds, smoke above the crowds

There is a festival every day in Indonesia, I’ve often heard remarked. (When in India I heard the same.) I’ve certainly been to a few during my time here. Two were entirely unlike anything I’ve seen in Oz: the Sanur Village Festival traditional kite competition, and SoundrenAline, a major contemporary music festival funded entirely by […]

Selamat Hari Kemerdekaan, Indonesiaku

Today is Indonesia’s 70th Hari Kemerdekaan, Independence Day. This morning I spoke with a young man from Amed in northeast Bali as he drove a French couple and I from there to Sanur. Normally around a three hour trip we arrived in just under two. Wayan drove furiously, frequently pummeling the horn with clenched fist […]

Mt Raung causes chaos at Bali airport… but only at the international terminal

On a one-day Singapore visa run earlier this year I queued at Bali airport from five in the morning for over two hours. A fellow AVID had warned the early Air Asia flight is always delayed, but I was still confronted by the kilometre-long queue furrowing through the terminal when I arrived. Sipping a mango […]

Swooning for Sanur

After my first solo international jaunt in Vietnam in December ’09, I met my former boyfriend Nicholas Combe in Bali for Christmas. It was my first trip to Indonesia. Nick and I overnighted in Padang Bai before fast boating to Gili Air, one of the three Gili islands lying like a trio of thought bubbles […]

City of a Thousand Edibles

Before he jetted off overseas for a few months Chriswan and I embarked on a final food adventure. Our delicious destination: the small city of Singkawang, 150ks north of Pontianak, capital of West Kalimantan on the island of Borneo. The majority of its population is of Chinese descent; Hakka comprise about 40%, another major group […]

Sanctum

We didn’t think we’d make our flight let alone the 12-hour ferry. On the way from our hotel to the Manado airport we hit horrific traffic, crawling a metre every few minutes. At the time we needed to find a taxi it was raining heavily and there were none around, so Chriswan flagged down an […]